Fair-weather Blogger

One of the things I've learned in my first three months in Trinidad is: I am not a disciplined blogger. I am more of a fair weather blogger if you will. Although, just over a month ago our laptop was stolen. After loosing all of my files, pictures, movies, music-- you get the point, I had an aversion to computers, which were not my beloved black Macbook. Now I have slowly worked my way back to the blog via facebook and hotmail, but I have a new soft and sympathetic spot in my heart for all those who have ever lost a laptop. Laptops are stolen all over the world everyday, in fact I actually had my first work laptop stolen in St. Louis Park, MN 5 years ago. That being said, the whole recent situation really didn't help my transition or strengthen my relationship with my new host country. However as each week passes with it’s new adventures I am reminded why I want to live slightly outside of my comfort zone and experience something new.

For starters we had a lovely holiday in October while Charlie’s dad, George and his aunt Betsy came to visit. We packed a lot in during their 10 days here. From the beach to the rainforest, the roti to d’ rum they had all the proper trini experiences.(Click on the slideshow to enlarge the pictures.)




One of the great things about visitors is you make sure to get to all the tourist spots and do touristy things that sometimes are neglected in day to day life abroad. Drinking coconuts in the park seems more novel when you don’t get to do it as often as you like. Also, their trip was full of wildlife sightings. We were only a few meters under the red howler monkeys, which actually don’t sound like monkeys. They sound more like lions or maybe even an angry house cat in a fight. During their visit we stayed at Asa Wright Nature Center deep in the rainforest of the northern mountain range. It is perhaps my favorite place in Trinidad thus far. One of the main reasons is because once you get there—there is nowhere else to drive—drive being the operative word. My least favorite thing in Trinidad is the driving and everything it entails; ridiculous traffic, crazy loose-cannon maxi taxis, narrow and often winding roads, round-abouts that take 15 minutes to get into… to say it was ‘organized’ chaos would be a stretch. More on driving in Trinidad at another time.




We’ve also gotten more familiar with our jobs. Charlie has tamed the four-year-olds, well as much as possible, and we are now in a routine. We have experienced ISPS International Week, complete with art competition and a collaborative peace art project! As well as, Divali—the Hindu festival of lights, our students put on a lovely program at school, with roti, mmmm (my other favorite thing about Trinidad). [A special shout to Lisa, if you made it this far, for the perfect bracelets and bindi to accompany my new red salwar.]



As many of you know the population in Trinidad is roughly 40% East Indian, 35% African descent, around 10% Chinese, and a bunch of others…including a substantial Syrian population. This makes for many amazing culinary delights, but also, brings lots of religions and public holidays. Nothing encourages people to appreciate differences and diversity like a day off work to go “down d’ islands”! On Divali our friends Marc and Rebecca invited us to join them for our first trip to a group of tiny islands, which reach out from the northwest tip towards Venezuela. Here I learned the basics in making the classic trini dish, Breadfruit Oildown. Later another trini friend, Jodi, took me to a predominately Indian village to see Divali in full form.



A couple weekends ago, Charlie and I ventured to Central Trinidad on a mission to get clay for my classes (now I’ve just got to figure out how to get that 20 year old kiln running…). We started the day with a slight hangover from extended hour clubbing in Port of Spain, but persevering we visited Ajoupa pottery. Bunty and Rory O’connor have turned an abandoned pottery studio in the bush to their oasis, home, studio, and personal botanical gardens. After our tour, we went to Radica’s to collect 400 pounds of clay in our little Yaris. This pottery studio works with course red bisqware, keeping alive traditions brought from India 200 years ago. As central Trinidad is inhabited by mostly Indians, there are amazing Hindu temples to visit.



Now it’s time for me to sign off for bed, after a grueling day: At noon today, Charlie and I made our third visit to the Licensing Authority to get our driver’s licenses. This is a process that should only require one extremely long frustrating day, however, due to early unannounced closings, lack of efficiency and overall organization we found ourselves there again today for the third time. After waiting in a suffocating room for two hours to get our pictures taken—one of many painstakingly slow steps--we have our precious licenses, although the toll taken to get it is quite evident in my photo, I look like one of the peasants from Les Mis.

The much anticipated, extremely long first post.

It has now been a month that we’ve been in Trinidad and finally we are entering the first post on our blog, “Tales from Trinidad!”


As I type this I am sitting in the dark; we are having one of the regular power outages. They can last anywhere from twenty minutes to four hours. These outages don’t stop the International School of Port of Spain! We carry on in the sauna-like rooms using whatever sunlight we have. In my art room, we have quite a bit of natural light, which is a great attribute, however it quickly becomes an oven, as the windows do not open! Charlie’s elementary computer lab stays cool in the shaded side of the building, his office looks out to the fronds of palms and the branches of tropical trees. Although when 17 kindergarten students show up for technology class it is well… a little chaotic!

We have just completed our second week of school, met all of our students and coworkers become somewhat familiar with our schedules. I came to find a classroom and storage room completely trashed and filled quite literally with garbage. Gina, the 3rd-8th grade art teacher is also new from Canada. She and I spent two full days going through bags and boxes throwing out and organizing everything! My classes are quite small, the majority of my students are Trinis and I am proud to say at the end of my second week I no longer have politely ask them to repeat themselves every time they tell me something. Charlie’s wee little ones come in slightly bigger groups averaging around 15 and they represent every continent—truly international. There are many little things to get used to; some of them remind me of my time in Thailand—like “Trini time” is quite similar to “Thai time” which to me generally translates into: excessive slowness or taking a hell of a lot longer than it should ☺

Going back to the beginning, we arrived in Trinidad in the dark and after an hour or so in the arrivals lines, we were met by Mr. Ralph and Mr. Alex who brought us to our new home. I was confused as we pulled into Stratford Court and saw the rows of bright orange townhouses because when we were hired we were shown pictures of a very different looking place where we were to live. It was a little disappointing that we were not living by the beautiful swimming pool and gardens we had seen, however, as you will see our place is lovely inside and we have plenty of room for visitors! (Click on the slideshow to enlarge the pictures.)



Our very first meal (the next day at lunchtime) consisted of “Bus’ up shut” roti with curried chicken, potatoes, and channa. I was very confused when the food vender inquired what I heard as, “ Do you want your roti bust up or shut?” I assumed she was inquiring whether or not I wanted my chicken wrapped in roti or separate.
However, this was not the question posed at all—Bus’ up shut comes from "busted up shirt", meaning the roti (Indian dough like bread) is shredded and served on the side. Channa is the local name for chickpeas—which are delicious! And Doubles… well I’ll get into the heaven on earth known as doubles at another time. Our meal was fabulous although my picture does not look so appetizing.




The next day we were off to Tobago, Trinidad’s other smaller half.
After an exhausting 15 minute flight we departed the plane and walked to our guesthouse, on the way we spotted lots of loose chickens, goats, and even a cow. Even some of the goats have dreadlocks in the Caribbean! One night while walking to dinner I almost tripped over a renegade crab! The rest of the week was spent swimming, relaxing, reading, applying tons of sunscreen (did I mention it’s hot here??) and enjoying pina coladas, cold Caribs and Stags. When school started I found out one of my AP student’s family actually owns not only the beach (Pigeon Point) we were hanging out on but also the Carib and Stag (the man’s beer) beer companies…although it seems awkward to ask your student to hook you up with free beer.



The second week we were here was new teacher orientation. The first day consisted of waiting in the bank for 5 hours to open an account. Again, an example of “Trini time”. Later that evening we went to a lovely restaurant on the ocean where all the yachties park their boats during hurricane season. After waiting over two hours for our food we had quite a buzz from all the drinks we had to pass the time! As orientation week continued we were taken to Maracas Beach on the north coast of the island and Asa Wright Nature Centre, which is one of the most beautiful (and hot) places on earth—the pictures don’t even do it justice. I am not going to lie, going to the beach and the rainforest really doesn’t feel like work!



Our third week here was the first week of school. I am always very nervous for the first day of school, but when I meet the students I feel better and wonder what all the fuss was about…I think it may have been the other way around with Charlie. ☺ As it turns out pre K is quite lively! With the successful completion of the first week of school, ten of us newbie teachers took a trip to the east coast of Trinidad to Matura beach. This is where the huge Leatherback turtles lay their eggs. It is the end of the season for the turtles so we didn’t see the giants, however, we did rescue 22 baby hatchlings from certain death! Dogs dig up their eggs and eat them but the vultures; locals refer to as cobos circling overhead are the real danger. They were beyond cute, we were able to hold them and then we put them in the sand and watched them enter their new life in the sea. We couldn’t put them directly into the water--they have to feel the beach on the way out because they come to the same place as adults to lay their eggs.



Tomorrow morning we will be up at 7am (yikes--on a Saturday!) to head first to the Horticulture Society to buy tropical plants and flowers, and then to the market for fish, shrimp, fruits and vegetables. And then…off to da Beach!